Palm-lined avenues and houses draped in bougainvillea, majestic mountains, silky-smooth gelato, turquoise waters and German tourists. Along the shores of Lake Garda in northern Italy, close to the Alps, a string of little holiday towns draws visitors well into autumn.

Surrounded by majestic mountains with snow on their peaks, Lake Garda lies like a smooth mirror of turquoise and deep blue. White clouds hover on the horizon, sunlight dances on the water like a thousand glittering shards of glass, and every now and then a passenger boat docks in the harbour. Palm trees sway in the gentle breeze, and luxuriant bougainvillea covers the walls of the houses. People crowd the outdoor terraces over cups of coffee, ice cream, beer or plates of pasta. The sun is warm, and lavish flowerbeds overflow with colourful blooms.

It is hard to believe that it is already late October.

My Finnish friend has been to Riva del Garda more than ten times or so – she loves the place. This is my first visit, but its appeal is easy to understand. The town is not very big, although some of its houses climb the hillside, where a round stone tower watches over the town and the bay. Adventurous visitors can hike up, but there is also a lift, and the caves are another popular attraction. My friend has booked the hotel, about a 25-minute walk from the centre but close to the lake, with an absolutely wonderful breakfast buffet: everything is organic, with plenty of vegan options. There is also a spa, with a hammam, an outdoor pool, a Finnish sauna (!) and morning yoga classes. My friend joins a yoga session while I enjoy a lie-in one morning.

There is not really all that much to do in Riva, but sometimes simply soaking up the beautiful views and wandering around town is enough.
One day it rains, so we go shopping and visit Reptiland, a sort of zoo with exotic snakes, spiders, the occasional scorpion and a couple of geckos. Cobras, pythons and black mambas are among the species, and the owner, Stefano, enthusiastically shows us around the terrariums. But when he excuses himself and returns with a bunch of keys, we suspect that he wants to open some of the enclosures for a closer encounter with their inhabitants. My friend wants to leave.

There is a small medieval castle here, Rocca di Riva, unfortunately closed on the Monday when we visit. On the slopes of Monte Rocchetta, about 130 metres above the town, stands the Bastione. This round stone tower was built by the Venetians in 1507–1508 to protect the town. You can walk up or take the panoramic lift.

There are also a great many German tourists. Lake Garda is reasonably close to Germany, making it a popular destination – so much so that most waiters and hotel staff speak German, and many shops have signs in the language. During our three days here, we encounter a Danish family, a few Finns, a couple of French visitors, two British groups and possibly an American. The rest, as I said, come from the country to the north.

One evening, we head out for dinner among the illuminated little lanes and houses of the old town, joining a long queue for a table at a restaurant. The food – ravioli filled with ricotta and sage in a butter sauce, and lasagne, accompanied by an Italian Moretti beer and the local white wine – is everything we could wish for.

Another evening, a strong wind whips up high waves on the lake. We pass a beach where cheerful tourists (probably German) are swimming and shrieking in the waves. The velvety dusk wraps around us like a blanket, and a dog barks somewhere far away. October darkness falls, and the moon hangs like a bright white lamp above the lake and the town. Somewhere in the distance, we catch the sound of melancholy music.
It is late October, but there is summer in the air.